Sunday, April 20, is Easter, it is the Sunday of the Resurrection of Jesus from the dead, and it is one of the most beloved religious, cultural and identity holidays in every corner of Italy.
It is a solemn feast of Christianity preceded by the Holy Week and the events that marked the Passion of Jesus, from Maundy Thursday of Washing of the Feet and of the Last Supper, from the Good Friday of the Crucifixion and of the Death and then of the celebration of the Resurrection and theAscension to heaven.
The rites and customs of Holy Week differ in the characterization of Italian towns, cities and villages. Of these traditions rooted in centuries, Abruzzo offers a rich and interesting variety from both religious and anthropological perspectives.
In this framework, the PROCESSION OF THE DEAD CHRIST of CHIETI takes a prominent place, whose origin allegedly predates the year 1000 making it one of the oldest processions in Italy. Leaving the Cathedral of San Giustino at dusk on Good Friday, the procession moves along the main streets of the historic center followed by an impressive choir of 150 singers including tenors, baritones, basses and a string orchestra with 20 violins that intone the Miserere composed in 1767 by Saverio Selecchy, maestro di cappella of the Cattedrale teatina. The organization of the procession is in the charge of theArchconfraternity of the Sacred Mount of the Dead , which takes care of the staging and preparation of the symbols of the Passion, followed in procession by no less than ten other confraternities of hooded men.
AND THE PROCESSION OF THE UNAPPUCCIATES in LANCIANO is the culmination of Holy Thursday celebrations in the Frentano capital. It is the evening of the Last Supper and the betrayal of Judas so that as darkness falls, by torchlight the brethren of theArciconfraternita Orazione e Morte di San Filippo Neri walk the streets of the historic center carrying the symbols of Christ’s Passion and covering their faces with black hoods. Among them is one known as “the Cyrenian,” who walks the whole way barefoot while carrying a large wooden cross on his shoulders. The procession proceeds to the notes of funeral marches accompanied by the characteristic sound of wooden tree frogs.
In TERAMO , it is LA DESOLATA that lends solemnity to the celebrations, which since the 13th century have been charged with simplicity and emotion in depicting the Madonna’s desperate journey in search of her son condemned to death. At four o’clock in the morning on Good Friday, women veiled in black slowly carry the wooden statue of Our Lady on their shoulders through the streets of the city followed by the faithful. In its wanderings, the procession stops at several churches until returning to its starting point at first light.
IN SULMONA it is the “STRUSCIO DEI TRINITARI” that marks the Good Friday celebrations. This tradition, which dates back to the 17th century, is charged with devotion and recollection in representing the penitential journey of the faithful. At nine o’clock in the evening, members of the Confraternity of the Holy Trinity, dressed in traditional clothing, slowly carry the statue of the Dead Christ on their shoulders through the streets of the city, followed by a crowd of devotees. Along the way, the procession stops in front of numerous churches, where prayers and sacred songs are recited, until returning to the starting point late at night.
In Holy Week, every district in Abruzzo faces the burden of pain and death related to the rites of Jesus’ Passion. Eventually, however, Easter Sunday arrives, and with it we shake off our sorrows to immerse ourselves in the euphoria of a feast of rebirth.
And in Sulmona, another centuries-old rite cannot be missed: THE RUNNING MADONNA. After Mass, on Piazza Garibaldi the crowd opens up to make room, leaving a corridor. It is on that tongue of pavement that the confraternity runs carrying the statue of the Madonna on their shoulders to allow her to reach her resurrected son. During the run, if the statue loses the black veil of mourning to show the brightness of the green robe it means that the year will be propitious. And perhaps those present, in those tense moments, ideally participate in the headlong rush, only in those moments can they feel ideally embraced by the loved ones who are gone.
It is a Week full of appointments with Culture, Traditions and Faith easily reached by the A24 highway ( Teramo Est exit) or the A25 highway ( Chieti/Pescara and Pratola Peligna/Sulmona exits), or continuing on the A14 highway to Lanciano.
